tracksmag.com.au - Surf film focus at the Byron Bay International Film Festival
Surfing tends to attract a certain kind of person: the vagabond, the outsider, adventurer/risk-takers, those looking for the rawest – and most uplifting – experiences life can offer.
One such is Californian Dick Metz, now 93, who caught his first wave aged seven on a redwood surfboard weighing nearly 50kgs. In 1958, Dick set off on a three-year surfing adventure around the world and upon his return told his friend Bruce Brown about his travels. It was the inspiration for Brown’s film The Endless Summer – perhaps the most famous and well-loved surf films of all time.